Henna (Lawsonia inermis L.), Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.), Lac (Kerria lacca kerr), Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.), Turmeric (Curcuma longa L.), Weld (Reseda luteola L.)

Egypt
19th Century
Source: Ebeid, H., Di Gianvincenzo, F., Kralj Cigić, I. & Strlič, M. (2024). Chromatographic analysis of natural dyes in mediaeval Islamic paper. Heritage Science, 12(13).
Recipe Details

Ingredients

lawsone, alizarin, laccaic acid, hydroxysafflor yellow A, curcumin, luteolin

Preparation Steps

Dyes were extracted from plant (henna, madder, safflower, turmeric, weld) or animal (lac) sources. For henna, identification relied on lawsone (p. 7). Madder identification was based on alizarin eluting at 22 min (p. 9). Lac dye was identified via laccaic acids (p. 10). Safflower was detected via hydroxysafflor yellow A (p. 12). Turmeric was identified by curcumin (p. 12). Weld was suggested by the presence of flavonoids such as luteolin and apigenin (p. 12).

Original Recipe Text

Dyes were extracted from plant (henna, madder, safflower, turmeric, weld) or animal (lac) sources. For henna, identification relied on lawsone (p. 7). Madder identification was based on alizarin eluting at 22 min (p. 9). Lac dye was identified via laccaic acids (p. 10). Safflower was detected via hydroxysafflor yellow A (p. 12). Turmeric was identified by curcumin (p. 12). Weld was suggested by the presence of flavonoids such as luteolin and apigenin (p. 12).

Evidence

"The results show that thirty-four of the forty manuscripts examined contained dyes. Six natural dyes were detected, including henna, madder, lac, safflower, turmeric, and weld."

Remarks

Saffron (Crocus sativus L.) was mentioned in historical recipes but not detected in the 40 analyzed samples, likely due to its high cost and luxury status (p. 7). A synthetic azo dye was detected in sample AS6, dating it to the second half of the 19th century (p. 12-13). The extraction protocol for analysis used an EDTA-based method to prevent the conversion of glycosides into aglycones (p. 5).

Scientific Analysis
Chemical CompositionC10H6O3 (Lawsone); C14H8O4 (Alizarin); C26H19NO12 (Laccaic acid); C27H32O16 (Hydroxysafflor yellow A); C21H20O6 (Curcumin); C15H10O6 (Luteolin)
Analytical Techniques
HPLC–DAD
Certainty Level
Confirmed
Instrumentally Verified
Verified
Metadata
Material Type
pigment
Paper TypeHistorical Islamic paper
ColorYellow
RegionEgypt
Approx. Year1850
Source Information
AuthorEbeid, H., Di Gianvincenzo, F., Kralj Cigić, I. & Strlič, M.
CollectionAin Shams University collection (AS) and Ljubljana collection (AP)
Language
N/A
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    Henna (Lawsonia inermis L.), Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.), Lac (Kerria lacca kerr), Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.), Turmeric (Curcuma longa L.), Weld (Reseda luteola L.) (19th Century) | Islamic Ink Atlas